Windowpane Linen Shell

Following up on last week’s sleeveless top, here’s another from my closet.  When I started sewing again, a number of years ago, I attempted a commercial pattern for a sleeveless shell with a rounded square neck and side button closure.  It was a disaster from a fit perspective, and at that time I didn’t have enough knowledge to know what to do to fix it.  A few years later I drafted a similarly styled top using Pattern Master Boutique software and this time it fit like a dream.

The fabric is a pink windowpane linen.  I underlined this semi-sheer fabric to prevent the seam allowances from shadowing through and also to minimize wrinkles.  I’m not certain but I think I used a cotton voile fabric that I am fond of using as underlining.  The top is lined with bemberg rayon.  My plan to pipe the neckline and armholes ran into a snag because of the side seam closure.  I wasn’t able to use the traditional “turn through the shoulder” method which requires an open center front or back seam.  Instead I had to pipe the front and back separately; it took some fiddling (and prayer) to get the two joins to match perfectly at the shoulder.  In this picture you can also see the embroidered ribbon label I like to use in my garments.

Happy weekend, everyone!

Knit Tops from Jalie

This is an article I wrote a while back for my American Sewing Guild Chapter's newsletter.

Several years ago, I took a class with Sarah Veblen entitled Getting Comfortable with Knits.   I considered myself a fairly advanced sewist, but sewing knits had always daunted me.  Immediately following the completion of the class, armed with my new skills, I boarded a bus bound for New York City and proceeded to add several dozen pieces of knit fabric to my stash.   Those pieces have been aging now for over five years. 

When I look at my ready-to-wear wardrobe what I find is knit tops.  But when I sew I usually create more complex garments such as jackets and dresses.  Following the birth of my second son I was anxious to start sewing again but my time was much more limited.  While visiting PatternReview.com I kept coming across rave reviews for Jalie Patterns.  This Canadian-based company, specializing in patterns for stretch knits, is known for easy-to-sew garments with a fashion-forward look.  I formulated a new sewing goal:  create some knit tops for my wardrobe while using up some of my existing stash and practicing the techniques I had learned for sewing knits.  I ordered eight patterns (after all, when you buy three you get the fourth free).  I decided to make each top twice, the first time straight from the pattern, the second time with any needed changes.  Here I review the first two patterns I made. 

Most Jalie patterns are sized for stretch knits and come in multi-size format, typically more than 20 sizes per pattern, 2T through Women’s 22.  The instructions are brief but the illustrations are very clear and you can print an extra set from Jalie’s website.  Most of the patterns include multiple sleeve variations (I found you could mix and match sleeves between patterns) and many include an optional modesty panel.  Seam allowance is ¼”.

The first top I tried was 2787, the Criss-Cross Top.  This shirt featured three sleeve variations (flutter, flared ¾, and sleeveless), can be worn as a maternity top and can be sewn with nursing access. 

For my first version I chose the ¾ sleeves and used a copper novelty knit with multi-colored flowers.  I constructed the top entirely by serger.  I serged clear elastic along the edges of the crossover panels for stability then topstitched with a twin needle.  I loved how this top turned out but alas, the fabric has not held up well to washings. 

For my second attempt I used another novelty knit, a light purple with a puckered surface, fused onto a stable underlining.  I used dark purple foldover elastic to bind the edges of the crossover panels and sleeve hem and liked how this finish highlights the crossover curves.  I substituted a sleeve from one of the other patterns.  Both of these tops are great as nursing wear.

I later made another version of this top and I posted about it here.

Next, I made 2449, the Crossover Top.  This top features a crossover neckline with neckband, optional asymmetric hem and short or ¾ sleeves. 

My first version used a piece of knit fabric which I got at an ASG fabric swap or sale (probably at Jane Selewach’s house).  It was a remnant of black, pink, purple and coral stripe.  I combined it with a black cotton/lycra knit, using the stripe for one side of the front, one sleeve and one neckband, the black for the remaining pieces.  I used the ¾ sleeve (which I felt was too short) and shortened the overall length of the top by 2 inches.  The neckband goes up to the shoulder seams but not around the back of the neck.  A lump tends to form where the band transitions into the back neckline.  One PatternReview-er suggested using fusible bias tape along the back neckline which I did and it helped.  I also used the straight-of-grain fusible tape along the hems and finished with a twin needle. 

My second version of this top was made from a lovely Oriental print acetate/lycra jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics.  I chose the asymmetrical hemline to enhance the Asian flair of the top, and used the flared ¾ sleeve (shortened slightly) from the Criss-Cross Top.   I did not shorten the overall length in order to use the asymmetrical hem and the top turned out too long.  I did not want to sacrifice the asymmetrical hem by shortening so instead I ran gathering stitches along both side seams, creating ruching across the front and back at tummy level (added bonus:  pleats help hide my post-baby belly).  Both of these tops also work well as nursing wear.  They show more cleavage than I like so I layer them over a camisole.

If you want to learn more about sewing knits for yourself, you can sign up for Sarah Veblen’s Getting Comfortable with Knits class.  See Sarah’s website for more details.